Artificial nails. Theory. staging forms

Consider the type of nail with all important for modeling the parties.

We look at the top of the figure. It depicts the structure of the artificial nail.

Apex - the highest point of the artificial nail, as well as the highest point of the zone of stress. Apex - one of the main elements responsible for the strength of the nail. That is, it accounts for the maximum load.

Nail in any case should not be too thick in the area of stress. Thicker does not mean stronger. Besides these nails do not look aesthetically pleasing, we can say awful - thick slabs)))

In the first photo we see that the longitudinal arch of the nail is smooth and even, but the visible bend.

On the second photo is a smooth line from the cuticle to the apex and from the apex to the end of the free edge of the longitudinal arch is parallel to the bottom parallel (oil oil) nail.

The bottom (side) parallel nail (1). Clearly continues to correct line growth of natural nails. Both lines are on the same line (2) and parallel to each other strictly.

Hairline (3) parallel to the transverse arch of the nail. Must be flat, smooth and have the same thickness (approximately equal to the thickness of a credit card) all over.

If we look into the end of the nail having a smooth curve of the longitudinal arch, we see the apex. If the arch is parallel to the bottom parallels, then you will not see the apex.

Red denotes the natural fingernail and cuticle at the side bolsters, which have artificial material in order to prevent delamination of the material. In this zone, the transition of the material in the natural nail to be unnoticeable, there should be no step should not cling to nothing.

Formulation forms. After preparing the nails to build production runs forms. Statement of forms depending on the form of natural nails and future forms of artificial nails.

In the first photo shows the nails with a slight curve in the transverse arch and semicircular hyponychium.

This is the easiest form for setting nails. To form such nails are cut only in depth, which depends on the roundness of the hyponychium. If you have a high side bolsters, then on the form for better performances can be cut "ears". On the form, they look like this:

The second image shows the nails having defined longitudinal arch where a range of 40-50% of the hyponychium and of the straight line.

In this case, the width of the cut form, if you wish, you can also trim tabs, as usual in this form of nail side bolsters heavily favored over the height of the nail plate.

The third case is the most difficult, so hyponychium in these nail grows strongly and beyond the fingertip. In addition, these nails have a bend transverse arch in 50% of the circle. Therefore it is necessary to cut the shape and depth, and width. Typically in such high polish side bolsters does not happen, so cut the ears are not required.

Next we see the angle setting form.

If we want a salon square or oval shape is put straight, clear extension of the natural nail.

Exception: nails growing up - a form slightly down fingernails growing down - shape up a little. In both cases, the maximum remove the free edge.

If we want a classic almond or stiletto, the form is placed with a slope down to about 15 degrees.

Exception: nails, growing up - a form of drops even lower, nails growing down - form placed exactly. In both cases, the maximum remove the free edge.

If we want to create arched nails or non-standard form, form bullied up to create a steep arch.

Exception: nails, growing up - do not turn up their form up too (not only that nails will zadratye, it will spoil the architecture and affect the durability and wearability nails); fingernails growing down - put form above normal.

Preparation of natural nails to build

Actually I personally while preparing for increased use nail technology training coated nail gel polish. And use it as a gel, and under acrylic. About the features of later, but for now just on the standard procedure for the preparation of nails to build.

1. This item is used in general for any procedure with hands and feet. For your own safety and the safety of the client you have to treat your hands and the hands of the customer antiseptic. IMPORTANT POINT: If you are wearing gloves, then you put antiseptic on your hands, wear gloves and treat them as an antiseptic.

2. Move aside the cuticle. Orange stick will not work, especially if the cuticle is overgrown and tight to the nail. Hatchet remove pterygium. If you own the hardware manicure appliances, you can facilitate and accelerate its work using a cutter.

3. File for natural nails remove the free edge of the natural nail and remove the gloss from the nail. Remove gloss it means SLIGHTLY dull the surface of the nail. If you are unsure of your hands, take a hard buff. Too much you will not remove them.

If the building is carried out on the tips, but now it's time to glue them and treat.

4. Remove dust from the nail. Degrease the nail dehydrator.

5. Apply the primer.
      - If the building is done with acrylics, then take an acidic primer. Although now there are acid-free acrylic primers.
      - If the capacity is performed gel, then take acid-free primer

What is the difference acidic and acid-free primers? Acidic primer raises flakes natural nail that allows the material to better catch on. Acid-free primer acts as a double-sided tape, a material with interlocking nail plate.

If you build on the tips, the primer is applied only to the natural nail. In case of contact tips, nail tip could crack!

6. If the building is performed gel, then the nail rubbing movements before reaching the cuticle of about 1 mm, is applied to the base layer of gel or a single-phase gel. The nail is ready to build!

Regarding the preparation of nails to build on the training system to cover the nail gel polish. In gel lacquer base stronger adhesion compared with the base for a solid gel that eliminates detachment even in the most troubled clients! Besides it is possible to eliminate the primer is sufficient degreasing.

But there are to be two systems, and what to use - you choose.

Note: When using the gel lacquer base under the acrylic is recommended to remove her sticky layer.